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  CLIMBING IN SARDINIA

JERZU

The climbing area is climb_mappajerzu - Ingrandisci la fotoin the outskirtses of the surroundings of Jerzu is certenly one of the most evocative interesting of Sardinia. Although its valorization from point of view of the freeclimber began in 1989 and only one small part of the available potential has been used up to now, the routes that the walls offer have seen to pass climbers coming from all Europe! But If it is out of doubt that the landscape of Jerzu is one more of the evocative originals and that a climber can imagine, equally discounted it is not the index of relative enjoyment to the type of the climb! Enormous vertical, single limestone mirrors superficialally worked, offer a technical highly progression and "cerebral", it gives for sure the major stile used today. But for many this is a serious handicap that ends in order to render a suffering their visit to the cliffs of Jerzu, for others is a trueth, a rise of garden of the delights of the technique, a true "Eden" where it is able to learn the secrets of motoria intelligence. And in fact it is necessary to have a good dose in order to come to head of more complex problems that these walls know to offer, problems where the muscular force not serve a lot! And it is here that the fascination of Jerzu resides, beyond naturally to the extraordinary landscaped context: the single is able to play still with the equilibrium and the mind when the great mass of climbers fight against the gravity...Situation: the walls are situated in the west near the village of Jerzu. Street access: Jerzu you will find 5 Km from SS 125 the Sardinian Oriental, and is attainable from Cagliari in about one hour and 30 minutes (110 Km). From Nuoro it is the same, through the valley of Correboi, while from Isili (always one hour and 30 minutes) it is better to follow the Nurri ľ Escalaplano - Perdasdefogu distance. Accomodations: free camping to the sanctuary of S.Antonio or lodging in one of the several lodges of Jerzu or Ulassai, of which the most convenient lodging is "Concetta" to Jerzu. In the summer time it is advisable to have use of the campings on the shoreline of Barisardo (25km from the walls). Between the others is the camping "L'Ultimo Spiagga" (Last Beach) advisable with artificial arena of a climbing.climb_buggeru Useful news: it goes particular lend, attention to the cattle (more or less wild goats, sheep, pigs etc.) do not disturb, don't incur in the gunshots of the shepherds. Attention also not to adventure on the dirt roads in periods of rain: strongly danger of landslides! Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows a unbearable wind from  the northern quadrants the only frequentabile place is the "Palazzo d'Inverno" (Palace of Winter), even if in the cold season it isn't prefered (the sun goes late morning). If it rains it is better to change zone, while the hot temperatures choose a shadow place. If you all found too difficult for your climb possibilities approach the field of Vertical Dances of the Castle, some shooting of rope will satisfy you sure. If you are hungry or silks stop at the restaurant "Su Cannonau" to Jerzu where you will taste the famous culurgionis all' ogliastrina ( a type of ravioli), beyond to the famous local wine (extrastrong!!)

BAUNEI

The territory of Baunei, a consisting slice of the famous climb_mappabauneiSupramonte, is one of the last wilderness of the Mediterranean. In this zone the climb has been developed on reefs, perhaps the most spectacular and wildest cliffs of the entire island. The cliff, anywhere optimal, and above all the marine atmosphere in which you scramble up, contributes to render these places unforgettable... "Campo dei Miracoli" is one cliff of modern but inserted conception in a landscaped context of first class. One scramble is therefore on monoshooting very protected but with the optional of the charming sight on the sea. The "Regno dei Cieli", closed by, is instead the most fitting italian translation of the "Provenzale Verdon". The same emptiness, same cliff but moreover with the sea beneath you. The score of ways that have been traced till now is a little in order to resist the comparison with the provincal throats... Finally the Cove "Cala GoloritzŔ" conjugates the better characteristics of the previous cliff: a magical synthesis that has made of the Cove and its obelisk of exceptional limestone, the Aguglia, unquestionably place of the beautiful and evocative climb of the Sardinia and probably of the entire Mediterranean. That to say more? Situation: the Supramonte di Baunei is found hardly to NE of the country and encloses one of the most beautiful architectures of rocks of the Sardinia. They show themselve all on the crystalline sea of the oriental coast, that it contributes to instill the climb a particular and exotic taste, the only one of the European cliffs. The context in which the cliffs you find, completely isolated and deserted, has made sure that only today they have been taken in consideration from the climbers sportswomen. That in spite of these places conserve all their primitive and original beauty. Street access: Baunei is crossed from SS 125 (Sardinian Oriental) that in this drawn it introduces numerous curves. To preview therefore 1.00 hour from Dorgali and 2.30 hours from Cagliari. The accesses to the Supramonte are unwinded on excavated unconnected outline. They are therefore not to use with luxery motors vehicles or campers. Accomodations: for lodges and apartments you have to turn to Saint Navarrese Maria or Tortolý. The free camping is prohibited and adviced against. Advisable camping the Last Beach "L'Ultima Spiaggia" with an artificial arena of climb at Barisardo (20 Km from Baunei). Useful news: the "Pedra Longa" and the arc "Arco di GoloritzŔ" are considered as natural monuments and therefore it has been prohibited the climb. On the "Aguglia" it is possible to scramble up but the camping to its base is strictly prohibited. Some difficulty could come up with the premises shepherds, if they come to you to ask you to clear what you are doing and where you want to go.

CALA GONONE

Cala Gononeclimb_mappacalagonone  is the most known center of the Sardinia and perhaps more attended, even if the population of the zones, like Isili and the Iglesiente, is increased more sport. This success seems has been realized by the possibility, to sojourn at Cala Gonone, to live and to know the nature of the Supramonte in all its aspects. And in effects the cove is an optimal point to part for Cala Luna, for Oliena, Urzulei, Baunei etc, and offers also the possibility to enjoy a splendid just rinomate sea. The cliffs of Cala Gonone are all little distant from the village and the climb on them has to be developed slowly. Too different to the south Sardinia, the lack of swayer elements in the equipment of new routes has left the task of the riveting the external visitors which happened on the single place in the festive periods. This has carried also to the obvious dishomogeneity of quality of the protections left in the native place, and still less the unavoidable routes without name and difficulty, of which is known only something or nothing. In spite of the position, leader of the Cove in Sardinia that is not in argument: also a difficulty fact, as an example, the frequentation of the place from a part of tip climbers, has made that its cliffs were concretized the first 8a and the first 8b of the Sardinia. And it does not have forgotten moreover the great amount about the easy tours that forms a certain attraction for the beginners and that, second many people, are the true dragging force of the place. Situation: Cala Gonone is perhaps an only rare case that in Sardinia, a village surrounded from several  walls and paretine, all of optimal limestone: a true paradise for the climber. Making base in the village, all the walls are infact attainable on foot or distant to a maximum of 5 Km. Street access: Cala Gonone is attainable through provincial in approximately 45 minutes from Nuoro, 1:30 hour from Olbia and 2:30 hours from Cagliari. Accomodations: Cala Gonone offers numerous points of  overnight stay: there are many lodges in the village, small but for moderate prices. Who wants can rent an apartment, there are a lot available (to ask in village or at Dorgali). Or you can use the camping (the free camping is prohibited). Outside the village, near to Dorgali (7 km), a good alternative is presented from the "Refugio Gorroppu", opened for good part of the year. Useful news: Cala Gonone offers the possibility to carry out numerous activities to bind together to the climb: courses of sub, trekking, mountainbike, visits to the beach and the high coves of the shoreline, speleology, archaeological excursions. At the port can be rented also sportboats. Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows a unbearable wind many zones are useable, being nearly the walls all is repaired from the wind "Maestrale". If it rains it is possible to scramble up to "Biddiriscottai", even if the cliff  will be unavoidable humid. If it is too hot it is better to scramble up in morning to "Arcadio" in "Codula Fuili", and in the afternoon to the "Poltrona". If you are hungry or thirsty the village is distant two steps!

climb_pietradiluna

DOMUSNOVAS 

T he surroundings of Domusnovas has acquired in the climb_mappadomusnovaslast years a prominent role in the climb in Sardinia. From the easy plates of the pioneer times, in first years '80, it is passed now to an immense area of valued walls and equipped modernly, also with the near zones of Iglesias, can be spoken now about the immensest climbing-area of the island. Domusnovas is composed of two great walls, "Chinatown" and the Wheel of Time "La Ruota del Tempo", and of various walls "satellites", many which still attends to be valued. The equipped zones you find all in the surroundings of the cove "Grotta di San Giovanni", to the entrance or the exit of the cavity. A particularity very interesting of Domusnovas is to offer various styles of scaling, depends on the situation of the limestone: this is amazing the vicinity between them is considered. Therefore a extremely varied climb with the possibility to orient towards the plates or the walls of the own preferences, and a choice of tours of all the different difficulties. It can be always taken as an advantage, in the case to choose the mistaken zone or the meterological conditions are not favorable, or the possibility to moove in five minutes to another wall. Situation: the complex of walls is situated to north of the village of Domusnovas, in proximity of the cove "Grotta di Sant Giovanni".
Street access: Domusnovas is easy attainable through highway SS 130 (45 km from Cagliari, 35 minutes) or, if you arrive from Sassari-Oristano, along the road that departs from Sanluri and crosses along Samassi and Vallerniosa ( 30 minutes from Sanluri). Accomodations: unfortunately, incredibly, campings do not exist and lodge in the vicinity of the village... In proximity of the cliffs there is camping is free (water you can get at the church "Chiesa di Sant Giovanni" or at "Sa Duchessa"), but it is possible to find also apartments to rent. Go to the bar in front of the new town hall to ask. Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows an unbearable wind from the settentriunal quadrants go to scramble to Cannelando and to Chinatown, in wintertime at the Wheel of the Time you will find cold! If it rains, many tours at the Wheel of the Time are equally agiblli, like also some of the zone of Canneland. If it is too hot choose first the zones with shadow and then omitted the routes on the yellow cliff. You will scramble better in the late afternoon to Chinatown. If you are hungry or thirsty the sandwiches in the bar "Tropic Oasi" (street map) or a "pizza" in one of the pizzerie of the village.

IGLESIAS

The surroundings of Iglesias are one of the most interesting climb_mappaiglesiaszones to climb of the island. There you find in fact some of the most beautiful walls or those which introduce the most amazing cliff, the classic gray limestone, which had made the fortune to the French cliffs. And there has been cited the parallel between the "Provence", the cliffs of Iglesias has been privileged the optical of sport, equipping every shooting with solid resinated tap-roots. The result is easy verifiable for everybody, the lack of super cliffs very equipped and attended from the inhabitants of Cagliari ready to be appreciated to practise also from the immense overseas public. And beyond already the famous "Punta Pilocca" and "Masua", just rinomate for the exceptional stone of which they are constituted, it is signed the discovery of the higher walls and the equipment of some spectacular long tours. In this sense "Gutturu Pala" and the Reef  "Scogliera di Masua" offers an ideal area for those which are bored a little on monoshooting. The zone of lglesias therefore candid like one of the new frontiers of the climbers, one of the most complete, various and very equipped. Situation: the cliff you find in the outskirtses of the city "Iglesias", in particular in the "Fluminese" and on the south-western coast of Sardinia. Street access: lglesias is easy to reach through the SS 130, a fast highway that allows to arrive in only 40 minutes (53 Km from Cagliari). Who comes from Sassari or Nuoro must feed the provincial road that crosses the countries of Samassi and Vallermosa and that arrives to the SS 130 near Domusnovas. Accomodations: At Iglesias and ist outskirtses are numerous lodges, but the most economic you will find in the village "Gonnesa" or "Nebida". The camping of "Fontanamare" should be restored soon. The camping is free in the outskirtses of Gutturu Pala, Punta Pilocca and on the beach (pineta) of Masua. Useful news: the cliffs you can use in a turn very interesting, that through coastal streets and panoramic roads, allows a visit of the entire zone. The visit to the temple "Tempio di Antas", the cove "Grotta di On Mannau", at the beach of "Cala Domestica" is advisable the abandoned mining villages. Most numerous there are then the possibilities for mountain-bike and the speleology. In summer time at the beach of Masua there is the guarded parking. Councils for a healthy entertainment: if at the cliffs blows a unbearable wind the most indicated tours are than at Masua. If it rains remain the possobility to move towards Domusnovas while if it is too hot you have numerous possibilities: Gutturu Pala, Sant Giovanni in the morning, Punta Pilocca in the afternoon. If you are hungry or thirsty at Iglesias you will find fine food: peaks, tartlets and ice creams as much as you want.

ISILI

The zone of Isili is already universally appreciated, climb_mappaisiliquite the most interesting zone of the Sardinia. At Isili are the cliffs, hundreds of tours which many have 7 degrees all optimally equipped, you can move on foot from one area to the other... what could like more a climber of years '90? But what is at "Isili" that is not already at "Finale", at "Brianon", in the Provence or elsewhere? The Sardinia remains however "a various" island and the climber does not escape to this diversity also in the more "continental" cliffs, not even under the precipice of 8 degree, between bifingers and monofingers and spasmodic fights against the gravity. Situation: the walls of Isili you find in nearly totality 2 km north of the village, in a sinking of the area, recently taken by the advantage to create an artificial lake. Street access: Isili is to reach from Cagliari by the SS 128 (70 Km, 1 hour) or from Oristano through Sanluri-Villamar-Nuragus. There are other less distant possiblities but not so confortable. Accomodations: the village is very supplied of pensions, 4 lodges all to reasonable prices. The free camping however is tolerated even if not considered (too much cattle). It is recommended to drink only the water from the source to the base of the Crow "Corvo Solitario". Useful news: Isili is a calm zone, never have been taken place thefts and the inhabitants are very disposed towards the climbers. However it goes respect the cattle and the enclosures (sovente of coppers of rovo) that the shepherds put on the paths in order to prevent the escape of the animals. Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows a unbearable wind from the northern quadrants choose the walls placed on the depositor south of the valley, many are perfectly protected. If it is too hot the Crow "Corvo Solitario" is one of the little frequentable areas, being nearly always ventilated. Look around and continue to follow the shadow... If you are hungry or thirsty you will find pizzerie in the village. Remarkable the confectioneries "pasticcerie", practically absent the sandwich bars "paninoteche".

NORTH SARDINIA

T he North Sardinia is the zone of climb sport that in fact, climb_mappasassariis more in delay regarding the rest of the island. That there are no cliffs here, indeed, but they are perhaps lacked the swayer elements that they have equipped and contributed to give an example, a small group of Alghero that has operated all above at the end of the years '80. For the rest it remained all like in the years '70, era of gold of the exploration of the granite zones of the Gallura. But the spit and sardinian granit have always quarreled of the cliffs of overhanging limestone in the outskirts of Sassari right now it seems that someone notices. The Gallura deserves a speech but in two parts. It will have this splendid granite have future more civilian and more sportsman, various from the appeared advertising photos until adores on the covers of the reviews, at the price of intolerable violences (seizes dug) against the cliff? It is soon to say, even if there is someone who proposes that is that the Gallura and remains adventure zone, free from the spit. And why not?
Situation: the zone of Sassari is the more interesting of the Northern Sardinia. Street access: it is near by and comfortable from Sassari, where in 5 minutes it is possible to catch up all the areas of Osilo. "Capo Caccia" you find itself instead 30 minutes from the city and "Capo Testa" 1:30 hour. Who wants to catch up this last locality has two alternatives: to follow the coastal street (Castelsardo) or an inner road (Perfugas), advisable for whome comes from the south. Accomodations: it is necessary to make single confidence on the pensions and on the organized campings, while the free camping is prohibited in all the northern Sardinia. Useful news: the most modern routes you will find them at Osilo, in the remaining places you will be able to test a climb a little various inserted but in a splendid natural context. If this interests don't forget to bring also the "nut and friend" in order trying to strike also other zones "alternatives" of the Gallura, like "Aggius" and "San Pantaleo". Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows a unbearable wind it will be only able to scramble up on the cliff of "OsiIo Grande", the only one not directly exposed to the wind  "Maestrale". If it rains you don't have many possibilities, while if it is too hot many walls can be frequented in the morning. Remember that the humid renders impraticabile the cliffs of "Capo Caccia", and the wind those of  "Capo Testa". If you are hungry or thirsty you will be able avvalervi one of the numerous inns "trattorie" closed to the zone or the famous sandwich bar "paninoteche" near the port of Alghero.

SARRABUS

The granite of the SÓrrabus is smoothed down a lot from the wind and with a few rifts, very various from that of Villacidro or the climb_mappasarabusGallura. On the massive of the 7 Siblings "Sette Fratelli" you find today a myriad of fissures from the flared edges that let only exceed with the technique of joint, not well known between the climbers of today. However the SÓrrabus introduces also some exception that confirm the rule a pair of sectors a little various that recently periods which have seen to appear the spit. One is a quarry of granite, valued only why it is placed in a charming place like Villasimius. The other "Jurassic Park", is a new development of the last hour. Far away from the crowds and the roads, it is told of this granite to heels and sometimes near to the sea, one new frontier... And finally, in order not to break off the bridges with the tradition, the manipulate of protagonists become attached from the past to the fissures of the "Garibaldi" has decided to recent to defend some spit. And why not profit of the useful park that they want to create a few willings, desiderations to show to the modern climbers the creatures of the past on which they skin the hands? Situation: the Sarrabus is the granite massive to the east of Cagliari culminating with mounts of the Seven Siblings "Sette Fratelli"and "Punta Serpeddý". Street access: SS 125 (Sardinian Oriental) is the road to which it is necessary to make reference in order to reach these cliffs. However for Villasimius you have to follow the provincial coastal from Cagliari or Muravera, remembering that often in the summer they are blocked from the tourists in vacation. Accomodations: there are optimal campings at Villasimius "Spiaggia del Riso" and "Costa Rei". Unfortunately opened only in the summery season. In the wintertime it is possible to spend the night in the outskirtses of "Quirra" or "Muravera", otherwise free camping  (beach of Quirra, 7 Fratelli). Useful news: these cliffs are really various among them that it is nearly a paradox to treat them unitarally. However the granite that joins them has made that they became too often ignored from the crowds of the climbers returned instead to the limekilns of the Iglesiente or the Supramonte. For whome wishes to find again some solitude or to reopen the bridges to the past there is nothing better... Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows an unbearable wind try to scramble at Villasimius, otherwise organize some sightseeing tour! If it rains stay there where it is warm and if  it is to hot try to scramble in the morning to the Garibaldi, if it won't appeal to you you will find however the shadow of the forest! If you are hungry or thirsty you will find everything at Muravera or Villasimius (better in the summer season).

SUPRAMONTE

Who knows Sardinia and its inner land and knows that the climb_mappanuoroSupramonte is the reign of the limestone, a blinding limestone that he seems to fill up every space available for kilometers and kilometers of territory. It is impossible to follow the few roads that cross the Supramonte not to be captured from the exterminated cliffs and the deep throats of this sour and wild territory. These cliffs have been for years the reign of the continental mountain climbers whom during their short vacations, they traced a lot of tours, also until 700 meters long. A small secret garden - really, created a splendid limestone mountain paradise all still to discover! Vice versa the sport climb has never taken root on the great cliffs of the Supramonte, and this is not sure for the inconvienence of the accesses, very short of the alpine walls! For sure the spit are disappeared only for laziness of the climbers, because they preferred the wall beside the car rather than the large cliff of 300 meters. Sure it shouldn't be underrated, also the economic side: to equip a tour of 300 meters a spit costs a quarter of a normal wage of an employee, those are figures on which all the climbers should reflect a little - But perhaps the things are changing and also with the typical rhythms of this portion of Sardinia, also the climber begins here to be interested to the great walls. Situation: in this portion of Supramonte it's keeping account - cliffs where the presence of ways is equipped to spit, omitting all the other ways of alpine stamp. These areas are right now only a few but the potential of the Supramonte is enormous, and specially under the profile of the long tours.Street access: the villages of Oliena and Dorgali are accessible from Nuoro in 15 and 30 minutes. Accomodations: at Dorgali lodging to the "Rifiugo Gorropu" at Oliena  at "Monte Maccione", the "Cooperative Enis". Draft of little hotels opened all the year and with the possibility (to demand) to carry out camping. Useful news: the Supramonte is by far the most evocative region of the Sardinia. There are possible therefore numerous trekking to add to the climb, as the visit to the nuragic village of "Tiscali" or the "Gole of Gorropu", also to numerous touristic and not touristic coves. Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows an unbearable wind you will have some chances, it suits for you to return near to Cala Gonone. If it rains you will be able to carry out more profitablely to visit a cove, while it is too hot the "Cusidore" or the wall of "Monte Maccione" are waiting for you. Also Monte Oddeu in the morning and Dorgali in the afternoon allow to be discreetly in "the coolness". If you are hungry or thirsty go to the premises advised in the Accomodations or for the more demanding, the Restaurant "Su Gologone" (between Oliena and Dorgali).

CAMPIDANO

The Campidano perhaps doesn't have nothing to see with the cliffs, climb_mappacampidanoit is only a long green strip that diagonally crosses the southern bread of the Sardinia. However various alot of interesting cliffs show oneself to the plain and this characteristic and may be the single thing that joins to them... From the limestone of "Cala Fighera", "city"- cliff for excellence, to the granite of Villacidro until to the stratified basalt of Mount Arcs "Monte Arce", there is indeed for all the tastes! The distance of the centers proposals between them doesn't allow visits in sequences like in other zones of the Sardinia, even if the SS 131 allows to moove very fast. However it is better, therefore it can be fully understood the spirit of every place and appriciate for the "diversities" that it knows to offer, regarding Isili or to the Iglesiente. In this context a climb can be said that Monte Arci truly offers the most original cliff of the Sardinia, proposed of basalt adding all together solid and adapted to the high difficulties: elsewhere, in fact, we don't find these characteristics unfortunately. Also Villacidro deserves a visit for the unknown particularitities of its climb: although in fact it is one of the first zones of Cagliari in which the first one has scrambled up and not the only which offers the granite like support, only here is resolutioned to conjugate scramble sport with a cliff  that is badly lend to the high difficulties. Situation: the area of climb of the Campidano introduce various characteristics and they are all distant from each one. Street access: The SS 131, main artery of the island, allows to arrive in little distance from every wall, as it is deduced from the map. Accomodations: who wishes to have use of of lodges will be able to find at Cagliari, Oristano or Sanluri. In the summer season there are campings in the zone of Oristano, or at Cagliari at the locality "Capitana". Useful news: for the beauty of the landscape it is advised to visit in spring and autumn. Councils for a healthy enjoyment: if blows an unbearable wind only Cala Figherablows and (in part) Mount Arcs is able for use, while the other walls are exposed to the cold wind of the northern quadrants. Cala Fighera is in kind the warmest place, Villacidro the coldest one. If it rains it is possible to scramble up on some tours of Mount Arcs. The stone of this cliff  has less of the humidity and therefore the humid time is frequentabile of the Iglesiente. If it is too hot the better areas are those at Villacidro (in the afternoon) or Mount Arcs (after the 15:00). If you are hungry or thirsty go to the village closed to, do not forget that the stores close from the 13:00 to the 17:00 and that the bars are not always supplied with sandwiches.

[Source: ESIT Sardinia]

 

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